Tonight was the mystery night. I hadn’t booked us anywhere to stay. I like to have a mystery night when I travel if I’m brave enough. It allows some flexibility and a chance to use any local knowledge you may have acquired. Who knows what one may discover when in country? What places you may discover and wish you hadn’t committed to somewhere.

The day before when we were having a coffee in Hienghene at the place up on the high side, we started to google, using the restaurant’s wifi and think about where to stay next. It turned out as usual options were limited, so we booked online on booking.com at Hotel Pieti in Poindimie about an hour’s drive up the coast in the direction back to Noumea.

Check in was only at 3pm so we took our time on the drive and arrived an hour or so too early. We drove through the town a few times and stopped on the main drag for a coffee and croissant at a little place where the lady spoke some English and was friendly, and allowed me to use her loo out the back.

Outside as we had our coffee at one of two tables, we chatted to a local guy and his little girl. Their names were Jean-Yves and Lillia. She was learning English at school so I practiced my French on her, and she tried out her English on me.

Jean-Yves wanted our phone number, said he could show us a waterfall or something. I tried to explain “mon portable ne marche pas” so he gave me his number which I duly wrote on my map, with no intention of taking him up on his kind offer.

We decided to return there tomorrow for breakfast when there would be a bigger supply of pastries. We had gotten there too late and had had to settle for the one remaining pain au chocolat. The friendly lady also confirmed the best supermarche was one up the hill, the rouge one, which we had already eyeballed.

We returned there and bought the usual: beer, wine, baguette, fromage, chips, salami. By now we were used to the products available, but in a tiny little local store in Hienghene I had spotten a bag of watermelon bubblegum. They were shaped and coloured like little watermelons, and I regretted not buying them, and from then on was on the lookout for them. With few things to take home I thought my daughter might like them. I also bought a pair of thongs – widely available in every petrol station or supermarket.

Still with an hour to kill we parked Francoise in a grassy park just next to the hotel and had a quick dip in the tepid sea. Then lazed on the grass reading our Jack Reacher books under a palm tree. At least I sat under a tree until Matt pointed out a coconut could fall on my head. I scoffed but then imagined it happening and moved on to another spot.

At 3pm we checked in to Hotel Tieti. It was similar to Koulnoue with decent bungalows. They were all accessed and interconnected by wooden ramps. The dining area and pool was much nicer than Koulnoue. It had a Balinese vibe, with a bar inside which made cocktails, big swinging seats overlooking the beach and comfy sunloungers arranged under thatched covers around the pool. Then we found out that swimming in the ocean is forbidden because of sharks. It seems the most dangerous things in NC are swimming in the sea, patting stray dogs and sitting under palm trees.

The bungalow was nice, air-conditioned with a fridge, tv (but no BBC here, only French channels), a good outdoor patio with sun loungers and a chair and table, and very big bathroom.

We sat by the pool on loungers and checked out the menu. Thankfully, no buffet, but still expensive. At least $40 for a main course. But again, not many options so I reserved us a spot. Afters naps and a shower, we mozzeyed on to the bar for a pre-dinner drink. I had a gin fizz and Matt had a red wine. We sat up at the bar and talked a while to the lady serving. Matt ordered a steak which he loved. I had tuna – also good but his steak won.

Next up: Last days on a small island: a bungalow in suburbia